Fair to Partly Gorgeous –

The 3rd Annual Blue Ridge Parkway Weekend

by Don Belk (originally published in the June/July 2001 Cog Hauler)
Photos by Chuck Tharp

“Fair to partly gorgeous.” Dave Connelly’s earlier prediction for the weekend’s weather held true as he, Sharon Roggenbuck and I spun away from the Blue Ridge Hostel on Friday afternoon, April 27, kicking off the 3rd Annual Carolina Tarwheels Blue Ridge Parkway Weekend.

Alex and Lois Coji, our gracious hosts and owners of the Hostel, greeted us. Their big news was a November forest fire that scorched 700 acres of hillside, the flames nearly engulfing their beloved home. They were forced to evacuate for three days as Western firefighters dug in around the hostel, setting backfires and dousing the roof with foam. We could see the singed trunks of the just-sprouting hardwoods. Everyone was OK, save one pet duck that perished.

The Parkway was in late afternoon splendor. It was a crystal clear day – we could now laugh about last year’s Friday ride in a thick, cold fog. “Here we are: reliving earliest Spring” Dave commented. The trees, some barely in bud, appeared a few weeks behind those in Piedmont climes.

Mike Freeman, Lyle Gardner, Chuck Tharp, Maureen Kurtz, and Dan Anderson (a Tarwheel from Indiana!) were already on the road, having arrived at hostel much earlier. We caught up with them as they rode off one of the many local roads intersecting the Parkway in southern Virginia. Chuck strongly recommended we take this unfamiliar foray, even loaning us a map. He promised comparable scenic beauty without the traffic volume of the Parkway. I was skeptical, but not for long. As we pedaled along Road #608, it was a wonderful, pastoral setting - with zero traffic. We ended up doing nearly 10 miles off the Parkway, taking several roads, all within a short distance of the Parkway itself. Fancy Gap could wait until another day. We were suddenly hungry, and hot Mexican food awaited us in Galax.

John Swartz and Wendy Roberts joined our trio at the Tlaquepaque in Galax. This festive Mexican restaurant (replete with silver-haired mariachi band) has such a voluminous menu it must have taken us 20 minutes to make up our minds. The wait was worth it – the food was hot and delicious. Perfect to wash down with a cold Corona or two. We joined the other revelers for the last songs of a bluegrass band at the downtown theatre in Galax. During the evening, the remaining Tarwheels in our group: Alyson Hyman, James “Jetman” Rubin, John and Tanya Hartney, Lynne Wilson and Paul Killough - began arriving at the hostel, and most everyone retired early.

Saturday

Everyone woke early to the kitchen bustle and smells of pancakes and coffee that permeated our sleeping quarters. There was food aplenty, thanks to the organizational efforts of Maureen Kurtz. During our sumptuous breakfast, we spent some time introducing ourselves to each other. I took this opportunity to speak of Lynne and Paul. Lynne has been a friend of the Coji’s for several years, and is a true believer in the Hostel philosophy. She also serves on the AYH Regional Board of Directors, and is working to locate a hostel in the Triangle. Paul Killough – one of the original Tarwheels - is truly the founder of these Tarwheel Parkway weekends. He was leading Parkway rides from the hostel for years before I first continued this tradition. Thanks, Paul!

I convinced everyone to head south on the Parkway at least as far as Little Glade Mill Pond. I promised a relatively easy ride, with the mill pond being a picturesque turnaround point. The real climbing – to Doughton Park – begins shortly after. I convinced a few Tarwheels – including the young racer Mike Fogleman, who arrived late in the night - to go 70 miles – past the Doughton Bluffs, all the way to the Laurel Springs exit. Catherine Share and Cindy Atkinson dropped by before they headed north to Mabry Mill.

As we glided south on the BPR toward Cumberland Knob, I spontaneously burst into song: “Perfect Day” by Lou Reed – from his classic album Transformer. Something about the Parkway has that effect on me. It was apparently helpful to the other riders as well, as they suddenly picked up their pace and sprinted just out of earshot. A ride on the Parkway makes you put a positive spin on everything.

We were unsure if the Doughton Bluffs Coffee Shop, with their renowned fruit cobblers, was open, since May 1st is Opening Day on the Parkway, but after a quick stop at the Cumberland Knob Visitor Center and a call to Doughton Park, we were elated that a wonderful lunch awaited us.

Little Glade Mill Pond was as idyllic as advertised, and a perfect stop for a rest. The day was so splendid, spirits so high, that everyone decided to push on toward the climb to Doughton Park. It was hard for those not used to mountain riding, but the delicious food and the celebratory mood of the Coffee Shop staff on the first day of the season made for a memorable ride destination.

The toil of the Parkway climbs is followed by sometimes hair-raising descents, and you best be sure of your riding skill and equipment before you let gravity take its course. Mike Freeman had quite a scare when his STI levers came loose on a road bump and slipped down on the handlebar. Suddenly, frightfully, Mike realized the source of an annoying creak on his maxed-out Cannondale CAAD-4. Fortunately, Mike kept his cool and had a valuable lesson for all of us – check out your gear before you ride!

Even on the Parkway, there are frequent reminders that we cyclists don’t have equal rights to the roadway, according to some drivers. Wendy was blazing down from Doughton when a vehicle approaching in the other lane suddenly confronted her! An impatient motorist, despite seeing several bikes ahead, decided to pass anyway. The driver realized his mistake and swerved back into the correct lane, but only after giving Wendy an unexpected heart rate jump. Wendy didn’t panic, and had already picked a clear line to safety – between the car, the guard rail, and a 500 foot drop off the side of the mountain.

Neither of these incidents put a damper on our day as our hardy group made the last climb from Fox Hunters Paradise. We arrived back at the hostel, where preparations for the communal evening meal were well underway.

Sunday

Tradition has been that Sundays are ‘do-what-you-will’, with some riders heading for home, some heading to the New River Trail, and others doing another jaunt on the Parkway. But first, there was clean-up detail! I got to practice being a Navy Chief again, barking orders and rousting ‘volunteers’. What a crew we had! Mike Freeman, Sharon Roggenbuck, and Lyle Gardner tackled the ‘heads’, while the rest ‘turned-to’ on the galley. Tanya wiped down the ‘reefer’, while Michael Fogleman ‘field-day’ed’ the men’s berthing. In ‘civvie’ terms, we got the place pretty darned clean. We left the hostel cleaner than we found it. This crew definitely ‘had all their sh*t in one sock’ and represented our club superbly.

We bade farewell to Dan and James. Dave, Chuck, Maureen, Lynne and Paul completed nearly 40 miles on the NRT. The rest of us roadies headed for Fancy Gap and the World’s Finest Convenience Store. The weather was almost chilly as we rested there long enough to chat with some motorcyclists on BMWs and a professional mountain bike racer-girl driving a yellow Porsche Boxster convertible, and to see John and Tanya gassing up their auto, tired but satisfied after their trip to Mabry Mill.

In closing, it was another great Blue Ridge Parkway weekend! As always, the most gratifying thing is to introduce the Parkway to a cyclist who has never experienced its wonders. For the seasoned rider, every trip holds new delights. Two in our group told me that Saturday just might have been their best one-day ride – ever! For bicycling, there is simply no finer road. Here’s to seeing you there next year!